Beer Man: Keeping The Reverend true

Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world.

This week: The Reverend

Avery Brewing Co., Boulder, Colo.

http://averybrewing.com

Avery has been a mainstay of the Colorado brewing scene since 1993, offering beers such as Old Jubilation Ale, Salvation, The Beast, Out of Bounds Stout and many others.

In 2011, it had to stop distribution to about 15 states, including my own, because regional demand was so high. Since I bought this in Wisconsin a couple of weeks ago, it seems they have increased production and can now keep up with demand.

The Reverend is a Belgian-style quadrupel ale that stays true to the style without any gimmicks such as extreme alcohol content or inappropriate hops or malts. It's as fine a quadruple as you will find.

The amber ale produced an off-white head during the pour with lacing quickly sticking to the glass, and complex fruity and bready aromas appearing.

The fruit flavor of the beer is exceptional — a bit of pear, raisin, cherry and especially black currant. One of the magic qualities of beer is that the combination of certain malts and yeasts can produce these aromas and flavors without actually having to use fruit.

Black currant fruit has a flavor similar to black raspberries, but is very tart. Like cherries and raspberries, it is versatile and its flavor nicely complements malt. Much of this flavor is due to the use of Belgian yeast strains that interact with Belgian Special B malt, one of the The Reverend's ingredients.

It is a specialty roasted caramel malt that adds dark fruit notes and a richer, fuller body to beers. Although its main use is in darker Belgian styles, I have also enjoyed its use in my homebrewed stouts, porters, brown ales and, especially, Scottish-style ales.

However, fruit is not the only aspect of The Reverend's flavor profile. That breadiness from the aroma is present, as well as caramel, clove, pepper and molasses. The sweetness is enough to bring o! ut the flavors and temper the high 10% ABV, the carbonation is low medium, and the mouth feel is full and creamy. Hop flavor and bitterness is minimal.

Many Belgian quadrupels lean more toward a raisin-date fruit profile; I like the difference that The Reverend provides. It is available year round in 22-ounce bottles in about 27 states; Avery's Beer Finder link is here.

Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website, which often contains information on product availability. Contact Todd Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com. To read previous Beer Man columns Click here.